Some dedicated project time has brought things along a bit this weekend. I fitted the chrome side panels, the knee pads and the tank badges whilst watching telly one evening. I'm really pleased with how it's come up.
The chrome isn't perfect, a few tiny pits still show through, but the combination of the fresh paint and the re-chromed panels is great. Thanks go to TJC Design for the paint work; they've also done the various plastic bits to match the powder coating that was done by Griff's Reality Motorworks. Both places were really helpful, friendly and have done a great job.
Griff's also did the vapour blasting on the various aluminium parts, a fair bit of zinc plating and powder coating of a small luggage rack. The crankcases came up very clean, as you'll have seen in the previous post. They're not quite as nice now that I've had my grubby mitts all over them whilst assembling the engine, but a quick once over when the engine is in the frame will sort that out.
Here the gearbox is all back together, kickstart mechanism refitted and the camshaft in and timed. I had a bit of a head scratch over the gearchange, and was worried I'd screwed it up for a while (although I couldn't see how). Turns out the shift pattern is 'upside down'. This Honda, although it is a left foot change, is a one ↑ three ↓ shift pattern.
I'm in for a confusing summer as my KTM has a left foot one ↓ five ↑ (conventional modern set up used by most manufacturers for decades) and my BSA has a right foot one ↓ three ↑. So that's three different set ups in the garage. If I ride my Dad's BSA at all then I think my head might pop as that is right foot change one ↑ three ↓. To be honest I need a rest having just typed that out!
The timing is a funny one as well. Usually there would be a mark on each gear, to allow you to set the relationship between the crankshaft and the camshaft. On this model there is a mark on the camshaft gear (the 0 that you can see by the teeth where they mesh with the crankshaft gear), but not one on the crankshaft gear. Instead the reference is the tooth by the puller bolt hole nearest the alignment pin on the crankshaft. I had to read that bit of the workshop manual a few times to make sure I had the right idea.
The last couple of photos show the clutch reassembled and mounted to the engine. I've replaced the mangled retaining nut and washer that I discovered when stripping it down.
I've also fitted the piston. I was hoping to get the top end on this weekend as well but reached that point of being a bit tired where it's sensible to stop before making any stupid mistakes. So hopefully I'll manage to get the top end on, and the engine in the frame, by next weekend.
My last thanks, for now, goes to Steve Riley at Piston Broke Engineering in Bristol (0117 9412300). I've known Steve for about 15 years now and he has given me advice on rebuilds of pretty much every common engine configuration, as well as general engineering help. He's reground and rebuilt cranks, rebored barrels and fixed so many mechanical messes that I've either discovered or created. If you have anything engine related that needs an expert eye then you can't go wrong by giving him a call. You're pretty much guaranteed a few amusing anecdotes as well! Steve gave the C110 crank a once over, and rebored the barrel for me. Thanks Steve, your help over the years and with this project is greatly appreciated.
Right. Time for some sleep!
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